Do You Know? The Skincare Benefits of Vitamin B3
Based on these scientific results, it appears that most of the literature confirmed that about 4% to 5% of niacinamide can provide a complete effect. At the moment, this ingredient is known to be mild and safe. Therefore, as long as the right ingredients are selected with the effective concentration, you don't need to spend a lot of money to return to the state of youthful and healthy skin.
Vitamin B3 is a water-soluble ingredient with a molecular weight so small that it easily penetrates the stratum corneum of the skin, reducing enlarged pores, improving uneven skin tone, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, and reducing dullness while strengthening fragile skin barriers. As it can improve the skin's barrier, it can also reduce environmental damage to the skin, so it has gradually become an indispensable ingredient in skin care products.
The three forms of Vitamin B3
Vitamin B3 existed in three forms, namely (1) nicotinic acid, (2) nicotinate esters (such as myristoyl nicotinate or benzyl nicotinate) and (3) Nicotinamide (niacinamide). However, not all forms are suitable to be used in skincare recipes and handmade skincare ingredients:
Nicotinic acid is more irritating to the skin, because it also stimulates blood circulation, so even a small dose may cause redness of the skin, and such a reddening reaction may be accompanied by Itching and tingling on the skin. In addition, different people may tolerate different doses, so it can be difficult to formulate the product. Therefore, very few handmade skincare professionals use nicotinic acid in formulating skincare products.
Some nicotinate esters will be hydrolyzed into nicotinic acid on the skin at low concentrations, which will result in the same irriation as using purely Nicotinic Acid as above. Therefore, when we use nicotinate esters in formulating a product, it is recommended to choose "long-chain" nicotinate esters, such as myristoyl nicotinate, which is known to have a much lower chance of causing skin irritation.
The most commonly used vitamin B3 in skincare products and the safest to use is niacinamide. The benefits of niacinamide are summarised in the next section below.
Therefore, when we choose a product containing B3, we must be careful to check which type of raw material the brand uses to avoid surprises.
What exactly does Niacinamide do to the skin?
Maintain skin hydration and moisture locking
The stratum corneum of the skin composed of thousands of cells. If you think of each keratinocyte as a brick, the cement connecting the bricks is the intercellular substance, which is the original water retention factor of the skin, which is composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. As long as these cement and the intercellular substance are sufficiently maintained and balanced, we form a strong skin barrier, and can prevent the loss of moisture.
Niacinamide can increase the formation of lipids in the epidermal barrier, especially ceramides. It can proliferate some protein structures (such as keratin, etc.) in the epidermal lipid and the skin barrier:
studies have shown that niacinamide has the effect of stimulating interstitial proliferation, which can increase ceramides by 7.4 times, fatty acid (fatty acid) by 2.3 times, and cholesterol by 1.5 times
therefore forming a water-locking barrier to prevent moisture loss from the skin.
The strengthened barrier will also increase the skin's defense against the external environment, especially for some chronic skin damage that has been plagued by surfactants and chemical solvents for a long time, which is helpful for the repair of damaged skin.
Therefore, in addition to greatly improving the skin's water retention ability, niacinamide can also provide preventive and repairing functions, effectively soothing skin redness, inflammation and other symptoms.
Whitening
This is the most commonly claimed benefit of niacinamide, and the research on niacinamide's whitening effect is fairly complete. The whitening effect is mainly in two folds:
The formation of melanin (Preventing the Black Spots): The whitening effect of niacinamide is mainly due to its ability to block the transmission of melanin, inhibit the transmission of melanosomes from melanocytes to skin keratinocytes, and reduce the production of melanin after ultraviolet radiation, while reducing the amount of skin melanin accumulation.
Anti-oxidation (Removing the Yellow Tone): In addition to the formation of melanin, protein oxidation may also cause our skin to turn to a yellowish tone, which is called "protein glycation". This is due to the oxidation of proteins with carbohydrates which produces a yellowish-brown colored cross-linked proteins. When these cross-linked proteins accumulate in the interstitium of skin cells, a yellow tone on the skin is formed. Studies have shown that niacinamide can effectively prevent the glycation reaction of this protein, so it can prevent the yellowing of the skin, so as to achieve the effect of anti-oxidation and removing the yellow tone.
Anti-acne
Niacinamide can inhibit the production of sebum film (sebum), especially the formation of triglycerides and fatty acids, therefore it is known to be able to prevent white heads formation, anti-acne and reducing large pores. Studies have shown that a 4% concentration in niacinamide is enough to achieve the effect of prescribed anti-acne drugs, and a 2% concentration in niacinamide for a period of 4 weeks can help with problems in sebum production and large pores.
Enhance collagen production : Anti-aging
Niacinamide can promote the production of collagen, inhibit inflammatory cytokines, and reduces skin inflammation. As a result, fine lines are noted to be reduced --- Anti-Aging.
Research results show that a 3% - 5% concentration in niacinamide increases collagen production, therefore keeping the skin in a delicate state, accelerates the renewal of the stratum corneum and improves the smoothness of the skin.
Recent research also found that a 4% - 5% concentration in niacinamide can reduce wrinkles and increase skin elasticity.
Soothing
Many medical journals have also mentioned that niacinamide can improve the dryness and redness of rosacea dermatitis and seborrheic dermatitis, and more studies have shown that niacinamide is effective in soothing atopic dermatitis. It is known that niacinamide can also reduce the chance of repeated inflammation and break the vicious circle of sensitivity.
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